there are ruins of castles and churches all around scotland. one of the amazing things about the isle of skye, though, was that these ruins were just casually marked on the (amazing) map (that dad bought). you pull off to the side of the single-track road, walk through a gate into a sheep pasture, and out to a falling down castle with a small sign identifying it as such. at dunhulm, we were the only people there; an older couple was leaving as we arrived. you poke around, look at the gorgeous view, and then walk back to your car and continue on your drive.
the isle of skye was rural in a way that i've never experienced before. it wasn't empty of residents - you were almost always in sight of a house and a pasture full of sheep or cows, but that's all there was: an occasional house or two. five or ten houses plus a store? that would be marked as a town on your map. i don't know how to explain it. being in skye felt like being at the edge of the earth.
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